Lo scorso 13 gennaio Siebe Vanhee (BG), assicurato da Diego Diazaguilera (CL), ha salito in libera la via Sundance che sale in centro alla parete nord ovest del cerro Trinidad. Aperta da Farquhar e Nachin (UK) nel 1998, è stata una delle prima salite nella valle di Cochamó.

Siebe ha impiegato 16 ore a salire in libera i 22 tiri della via, con difficoltà massime stimate intorno al 7c+/8a anche a causa della vegetazione nelle fessure.

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☀️ Sundance – A one day fight to free climb ☀️ ⁣ Upon arrival in Cochamó I partnered up with local climber @diegorampiketa . Talking about potential free climbs he pointed out the route “Sundance” which goes up the North-west face of Cerro Trinidad (5.12a (7a+) A2+ , 22 Pitches). This climb is mythical because it is put up in 1998 by G. Farquhar and S. Nachin (UK) and is probably one of the very first or even the first climb on Cerro Trinidad. According to the locals the route hasn’t seen any repeats. The perfect objective in my ears! The line takes the center of the steepest face of the whole wall. The 5 aid pitches are steep and challenging. The first 2 took me both two tries to send. Definitely pitch 9 was a big fight through dirty, flared and steep cracks. Sending this pitch required some kind of overhanging chimney/stemming skills to avoid using the closed dirty cracks, and some incredible will power not to fall or give up. My legs and lower back burning from the body tension necessary to stay on the wall. After this crux pitch 3 more similar but less steep aid pitches lead us up to easier ground. ⁣ I send an lead all the pitches while Diego gave me all his confidence, patience and support! In 16 hours, with lot’s of strenuous climbing and tons of support and patience of my partner Diego we managed to reach the summit of Trinidad. Although this send was a huge fight and felt incredibly hard I would propose a grade of 7c for the crux pitch if it would be clean. But like it’s now, hard to protect and to use the cracks it could be easily 8a. In general, the whole climb is sustained and not a single pitch will let you breath properly! ? @maxdidier_ @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthfacede @petzl_official @lasportivagram @avventuraoutdoor @totemmt @climbskinspain @frigyesvandenauweele @sportpraktijk @klimclubhungariavzw⁠

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