Il belga Siebe Vanhee sabato ha salito in libera Orbayu, la via sul Naranjo de Bulnes (Picos de Europa) liberata nell’agosto del 2009 dai fratelli Pou.
Lunga 13 tiri con difficoltà massime sul 8c, le prime quattro lunghezze di corda sono state aperte dai Pou con protezioni distanti, la seconda parte segue invece la via Mediterraneo con tiri gradati precedentemente A3.
La prima ripetizione della via è stata quella di Nico Favresse e Adam Pustelnik, seguiti qualche anno dopo dagli specialisti dell’alta difficoltà Cédric Lachat, Edu Marin e Gorka Karapeto.
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* “Orbayu” – 8c / 500m – Picu Urreillu ✅ * Yesterday was THE day, more quick then aspected I managed to send all the pitches first go of the day! I was super nervous, I knew very well I controlled the crux pitch good enough to send, but it was all a matter of skin. One split in a crucial finger and I would have to rest another few days before the next attempt. But once started in the first pitch, I felt strong and confident. I taped 4 fingertips to save skin 😂 and in only 1,5h we were at the base of the cruxpitch, with @ignaciomulero following me in speed tempo. A little rest and went for it, for the first time with only one taped finger and fairly good skin. Sensations were amazing, I was precise and quick. But also conditions where at my side, lot’s of wind and dry air. This is not always the case in Pico’s de Europa. Only 4h after leaving the ground we were all three at the top of the last hard pitch, Mulero, Campe and myself. @davidlopezcampe filmed the whole ascent and we all continued to the summit following the original aid line “Mediterraneo”. According to the guidebook it’s 10 pitches graded only 5+. But we were warned, these 5+’s could be hard and difficult to navigate in a sea of limestone, without much fixed protection. I lead all the pitches, supported by Campe and Mulero carrying each a load of gear! 🙏🏻 Despite the quick start, we only reached the summit at 8pm! But what an incredible climb, I live this adventure climbing. Orbayu as well as the upper Mediterraneo part! Thank you @hermanospou for having this freeclimbing vision back in 2009 and all the tips you gave me!💪 Thank you Mulero and Campe for the support and flexibility with changing plans and strategies! Big thanks to Mulero for the belays in the process and on the sending day 🙏🏻 📸 The first picture is taken in the last hard pitch after the crux pitch 📸 @davidlopezcampe @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthfacede @thenorthfaceit @thenorthfacefr @wildcountry_official @lasportivagram @avventuraoutdoor @climbskinspain @frigyesvandenauweele @sportpraktijk @klimclubhungariavzw